Backtracking from the Mudhole to Jonesport

The area around Moosabec Reach is clearly shown by this chart: The Mudhole is under the "E" in Eastern Bay. In the upper right hand corner is Great Spruce Island, which anchors the eastern side of the Thorofare. Dad had a fascination with the name Great Wass Island. What was a "Wass"? Mom like the New Englandy towns, their architecture, their stores. Dad liked the wild islands offshore with their deserted coves, dangerous rocks and all. John and I favored Dad's view of things that summer although we never turned down a chance to skull ashore for an ice cream cone.

Dad loved the sleak Beals Island lobsterboats, reportedly the fastest in Maine. Boatbuilding on Beals Island was a family tradition, the skills learned by doing, with an eye and an instinct for how she ought'a look.

These boats were fast and I know Dad was itching to give it a go to see if our Phyllis was at least competative. Lobsterboat racing in Moosabec Reach had begun in the early 1950's and was generally won by the Beals Island boys. John loved the noise these boats made at full throttle. I don't think Mom hung out any laundry from the rigging while we were in the vicinity of real lobstermen and their skookum boats.

A Cruising Guide's View to Roque Island

About Roque Island:
“To lift a phrase from South Pacific, this is a “special island.” The writer puts this island down as incomparable! With a long history, a fine beach, many acres of woodland, high cliffs, and a choice of several good harbors, Roque is an empire in itself.
It was purchased in 1806 by two partners, one of them Joseph Peabody of Salem, a famous merchant of that period who had at least three of his vessels built near the tidal Mill Dam at the head of Shorey Cove. On his death he left the island to his children. In 1864 it became the sole property of his daughter Catharine and her husband John L Gardner. Except for the years 1870-1882, when it was owned by the Longfellows and the Shoreys, it has been in possession of their descendants ever since…
The outstanding feature of this Roque group of islands is the 1 ¼ mile crescent beach of white sand on Roque itself.

Foote provides the following information on Roque Island:
…But in the night you may not think all is paradise. As likely as not you will awake in the wee hours listening to the low groan and grunt of Libby Island’s diaphone, announcing the arrival of a fog that may well last two solid weeks. And if you’re anchored off the beach ( in Roque Harbor) the prettiest place to be, you’re certainly going to know things if it blows up, for the holding ground is abominable..

Taken from "A Cruising Guide to the New England Coast" by Robert Duncan & Fessenden S. Blanchard: Fourth Edition, New York-1958;Dodd,Mead & Company.

Jonesport VS Beals Island

Mom loved Jonesport but I think our simpathies lay with Beals Island. We loved that fact that their boatbuilders designed the fastest lobsterboats in Maine. The fastest in the 50's were sleek 33-38 footers, quite stripped down compared to the Phyllis.

In fact Moosabec Reach was the scene of yearly lobsterboat races. In the 1950's, Bernard "Benny" Beal in his boat, Stella Ann, dominated the winner's circle to the extent the races were cancelled for a number of years. But in this new century, boats such as the Why Not, Chip Ahoy, Lotta Money, and Flying Toothpick vie at breakneck speed for the title of fastest lobsterboat.

Dad liked the boat called the Thoroughbred and secretly wanted to test our Phyllis against it. I suspect it was like Gary Cooper wanting to race his horse at every chance in the movie "Friendly Persuasion."

Here's some good links to articles about the races:

http://www.workingwaterfront.com/article.asp?storyID=20011210

http://www.explorenewengland.com/travel?article=maine/articles/2004/06/27/in_high_gear/

http://www.lowellbrothers.com/legacy.html

http://www.fishermensvoice.com/archives/0706resurrectionjonesport.html

Mom's log on Roque Island

August 19th, 1959

“Roque Island was our next destination and we hardly realized what a treat was in store for us. After obtaining groceries and the usual gas, water, and oil, we started out with a northwest wind and sparkling weather past the beautiful little lighthouse on Bear Island. We made remarkable time out to Petit Manaan and not knowing the waters, took the outside route around the lighthouse. Our next compass heading took the Phyllis towards the entrance to Moosabec Reach which leads to the interesting town of Jonesport. This is one of the few Down East towns North of Mt Desert which has gas and provisions. Much to my delight, I found the old fashioned cookie boxes in the local general store. It certainly took me back to my younger days at Bustins Island. I hope that Jonesport retains this old time simplicity because there is little enough left in our hustling world. Just for old time’s sake, I bought some “Pantry Cookies” and they couldn’t have tasted better to me!

Across from Jonesport is the famous Beals Island, where an exceptionally fast type of lobster boat is built. To our amusement, we discovered that Beals Island was also the hotrod center of lobster boating. Two boats which vie for the speed championship are the “Thorobred” and “The Boys”. A new fixed bridge has finally connected Beals Island with the mainland, and we scooted under that and on to Roque Island.

We approached our objective with great caution as many warnings had been given in our boating guides. Coming in at half tide around Great Spruce Island we were completely overjoyed to discover one of the most beautiful, half moon beaches, sparkling white, which we have ever seen. The next decision was where to anchor for the night and we decided upon Lakeman Harbor at the end of Great Harbor. The Phyllis looked completely at home…..” Her log ends here.